M(ech)anic Monday

1941 Oldsmobile Assembly

Skippic Saturday

My  Current Project... 1931 Ford Model-A, Frame in Mock-Up stage...

Traffic Thursday - Accident

Traffic Accident... Sedan that hit a tree.
Den Deyl, The Netherlands, May 16th, Year... Unknown

Midweek Muscle



1967 Chevrolet Chevelle SS Super Sport

Truck Tuesday




1934 Ford Pickup / 283 Chevy V8 / 4-Speed / 9-inch Rearend

Mopar Monday

Dodge Challenger R/T

Sedan Sunday

1930 Ford Model A Street Rod 401 Hemi 671 Blower

1957 Chevy... Get Ready to Surf


Today Probably the last real hot day of this summer... Enjoy it!

Taillight Thursday

1933-1936 Chevrolet / Chevy Tail Light Lens and Bezel

Gas Pumps...


Wagon Wednesday




1940-1941 Dodge MILK Wagon / Express Van

Truck Tuesday - 1929 Ford Model A Pick Up





1929 Ford Model A Pick Up / Barn Find

Sedan Sunday



1932 Chevy 4 Door Sedan / Chopped / Ratrod

Skippic Saturday

Just picked up this beauty... '29 Five Window Coupe
Here we are.. Eurotunnel.

Thursday Tech Specs - F100 Brake / 1937 - 1948 Ford Spindles Conversion

Here's a little Tech Spec I wrote for you guys who are thinking about doing this conversion that a lot of traditional Hot rodders, and me myself just did.

Putting F100 brakes on a ( dropped or not ) Early Ford Axle / Spindles 1937 to 1948. 

Like me... get yourself a good donor 1953 to 1956 F100 axle or just the axle hubs, backing plates & drums.

Take off the hubs and backing plates, they will work great, not only will you have juice brakes, but the have the advantage of self-energize......or they help apply themselves.

They are 11 inches in diameter and 2 inches wide...  so keep in mind that early finned Buick aluminum drums will not work they are 12 inches in diameter. 
The 1953 to 1956 Ford F100 Truck front axle / hubs share the same outer wheel bearings and cups.


Or... get them yourself at your hardware store.
The numbers will be: for the small bearing # 09067 and cup # 09195. No adaptating needed here.

Ford the bigger one you'l need # 14116 inner bearing to adapt the F100 hub to the early Ford spindle . Most of the times, grinding off a very small amout / radius is required on the top of the spindle or/ and the rear of the wheel cylinder where there is interferance on the 37 - 41 spindles.
Most likely that isn't necessary when using 1942 to 1948 spindles.

The inner bearing cup (# 14276) works... as is. Always replace them NEW to prevent problems.
You also will need ( Victor Seal ) #49195 ) or the one from Speedway Motors that has # A34032.

A good idea also is to look for 1966 F100 brake shoes and hardware. They are self-adjusting. The earlier ones are not. 
1953 to 1966 F100 brake drums interchange.

Try to buy them new but if they are hard to get new in your area and you have acces to a set of good used that's okay eather. They most likely are easy get as all the Mustang II front end swap guys call it junk that they do not want  anymore... 

Remember to only use 1953 to 1956 backing plates. 

Backing Plates & Brake Cylinder, How to install

To install the backing plates and brake cylinder on the 1937 to 1948 Ford Spindle the only modification necessary on the spindle is grinding of the kingpin boss to provide clearance for the wheel cylinder. 

The Spindle has to be grinded off at the top, indicated on the picture below, by the pen pointing to the ground area.



Picture below shows a round area grinded off. 










 (Above two Pictures... Credit to Jim Clark from his F 100 Brakes for Early Fords article at hotrodhotline.com)

View from rear of backing plate shows clearance created between the wheel cylinder and spindle. 



Me... at my conversion I'd also needed grinding off some flat area for good brake cylinder acces / clearance. 

The backing plate requires no modifications. It simply bolts in place the same as the early Ford units.

Other then the F100 Spindle, the Early 1937-1948 Ford spindle has a rounded radius where the bearing seats, so without grinding most likely the bearing will not seat fully.



The inner edge of the bearing needs to be grinded with a die grinder to match the radius on the spindle or the bearing will not seat fully.
PACK the roller area with tape to keep garbage and grinding grit out of the bearing






NOTE: If neccesary... DONT FORGET to grind off the radius.
Do the grinding BEFORE you pack the bearing with grease & BEFORE Installation...  

Grind enough so the bearing seats all the way to spindle shoulder.


Bearings & Seal... Wich way / how to install

1: Bearing race (cup),
2: Bearing,
3: Seal (two piece side in first).

Use large socket or Bearing Race installer to install race in rotor squarely all the way, rub bearing grease on race, then pack bearing ( with grease ) as much as you can, then seal (use large socket or correct size thick wall pipe to install squarely in rotor.

The picture below shows the correct (two piece ) side to be installed first...  because the design of the (45 degree inner area) of the rubber part of the seal allows it to set itself correctly against the shaft so that the wide part of the rubber keeps grease in and other garbage like dust, water, etc... out.








Put the seal in so that you can still read the numbers on the rubber after install. 


So... This side up!

Then install the 1,2,3, named above and... 
Once this is installed in the hub, put the hub on the spindle and install the Bearings slotted washer, nut and cotter pin.

F100 Brakes on 1937 to 1948 Ford Spindles ( Conversion ) 
by Von Skip / 247Autoholic